I’ve always wanted to create surreal images. I remember the first time I saw Salvador Dali’s mind-altering melting clocks. It was both out of this world but from it at the same time. It made me think in a way no other art form has.
As I started to learn about different photographic genres, I came across the work of some amazing conceptual photographers like Joel Robison. “I want to do that,” I thought. I tried but always stopped. I came up with plenty of excuses why I couldn’t: you’re not creative enough, you don’t know Photoshop well enough, you don’t have anything interesting to say.
These days, I’ve been using creative mantras to get over those ridiculous blurts in my head. I found them in a book called The Artist’s Way by Julia Cameron. I choose one and write it down 10 times each day. One of my favorites is, “I am willing to experience my creative energy.”
Writing mantras has really helped free me from my limiting beliefs. Now it’s easier for me to create an image in my head like this one at Marine City in Busan. I can’t wait to create the next one.
How I Made The Photo
The spot where I took this from is called Dongbaek in Busan. It’s one of the most famous photo points in Busan, so much so that there’s even a sign telling tourists just how to take the shot. The most common way is to get the buildings reflected in a puddle there. When there is no puddle, people actually use a bucket to get water from the sea and make one.
For this image I decided to make my own puddle with a Photoshop Plugin by Flaming Pear called Flood. I just downloaded their latest version, Flood 2, for free. With it you can put people inside your reflections. To see how it works, just download the free version and read the PDF instructions that come with it.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
I inserted a photo of myself in the puddle. I was having trouble selecting the image with refine edge in Photoshop, especially since my silhouette was against a dark background. This video below helped me figure out how to do that (better if you turn the sound off).
Step 4
I edited the final image in Nik Color Efex, mainly using the Pro Contrast, Tonal Contrast, Darken/Lighten Center, and Skylight filters. Then sharpen in Nik Output Sharpener. Finally, edit local adjustments in Lightroom like highlights, shadows, whites, and added magenta to shadows with Split Toning sliders.
EXIF
- Camera: Sony A7 II
- Lens: Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS
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